I will say don’t do a NEIPA or anything with a lot of hops or high ABV. Oxygen is deadly to hops and if you don’t have a good process for limiting it your batch will be ruined before it’s even carbonated. And high ABV beers can be difficult to manage the yeast. And a simple kettle sour Berliner or gose really isn’t too terribly difficult if you really wanted to try that as your first. I would just look for a solid recipe to follow that has already worked out some of the more specific details. Just be prepared that it may not work out and don’t be too discouraged if it happens haha
Finally building a spunding valve and going to ferment under pressure for the first time on this IPA I'm making this week. I'd love to have it never see oxygen again until it comes out the tap, but not sure how to pull that off with the dry hop.
these might be what I was thinking of but I looked very quickly so they might not be of help: The Mad Fermentationist - Homebrewing Blog: American Oat Ale: Brew-Day Dry Hop Experiment The Mad Fermentationist - Homebrewing Blog: New England Pale Ale: Brewing Video
I'm definitely just unnecessarily obsessing over the idea of it not seeing oxygen at all during fermentation. Easy to do with most beers, just weird timing-wise with a beer I was planning on dry hopping twice. Still doable, just not sure if it's worth bothering. I know Tonsmeire has mentioned doing his first dry hop with the yeast pitch often, so I could just do that.
It is. If I really want it to not see oxygen, I can toss in the first dry hop with the yeast and then do the second dry hop in the serving keg and do a closed transfer into it. Otherwise if I want to do the first dry hop at high krausen like I usually do, I'd have to let the pressure out and open the keg real quick to add it. Realistically there's enough of a blanket of co2 in there that if I do it that way and then close the keg and purge, it's barely going to get exposed at all, I just liked the idea of knowing for sure nothing got in.
Yeah I’ve never been quite sure how to get zero oxygen in my beers and just do like you mentioned to get as little as I can. The beer I have going now when I did the dry hop I first transferred to serving keg with hops in a bag and had them hanging from fishing line. I also had 3.5oz sugar and a bottle of wine in the bottom of the keg so that it would start to naturally carbonate and the removed the hops bag after 3 or 4 days and immediately purged. Not sure how well this will work though, especially seeing as the fishing line prevented the lid from sealing all the way during those few days.
Surely the fermentation will scrub out that oxygen from the way you normally do it, so long as your dry hop isn’t taking like 10 mins.
Yeah, for sure. Like I said, there's no real logic behind my thinking outside of wanting to do it just to do it.
21oz in the one I'm brewing this week. Actually worried that may be a bit low though as this is going to be some big dumb 10% thing.
It doesn't scale exactly of course due to different utilization, but 6-7 lbs/bbl seems to be the new sweet spot for commercial breweries putting out NEIPAs. That'd be ~15-18 oz in a 5 gal batch, which is what I'm typically closer to.
Do you usually do any bittering additions or just all flameout/dryhopping (not including this IIIPA you're doing haha)?
My local chickie and Pete's has a really good NJ beer selection. Was able to get a kane head high and brix city triple swirlpool.
We don’t seem to get Brix City down here at all. It’s very frustrating. I feel like I only ever get to try it at Brick Farm.